I feel it's time now. Gotta keep the challenge up!
So far I'm nowhere on this. Tried it couple of times yesterday on Wolf unsuccessfully and because I was on my 110/6.5 I blamed it on the kit. Basically I started it like I start a carve jibe with my foot on the leeward rail but laid the sail way down and carved until the board slowed and then there was no chance of lifting the sail up so I just dropped on top of it and went to sleep I never felt the sail getting backwinded. Maybe my speed was not fast enough and the carve stopped too soon, but I also did some mistakes as I understand after reading Jem Hall's article and watching the Getwindsurfing video:
www.windsurf.co.uk/jam-hall-move-on-up-carving-360/

Next time I need to do better!

Can you do it not strapped in? It's easier if you take your foot out of the strap as you slow down and use it to push the board. I get back winded a lot but usually can do it in couple tries. For me to be successful I have to do the following:
1. Really bear away before you start carving
2. Dig the foot of the sail into your shin. It has to go way back.
3. Look at the top of the mast as you are carving.

It's good fun, keep on trying. Good place to try is The Wall. (I know you don't like it there)

I have my C360s dialed in on port tack. I can do them front foot out of straps (360s) on both tacks.

It is my favorite move in high wind. I can and like to do them in overpowered conditions. Keep it up! It feels awesome.

I agree it is best to learn the 360 (with the front foot in front of the mast) first. It helps a lot if you can comfortably sail backwinded in light wind. LWF does make it better! That way with the 360 you are in a similar place over the board at the important transition time.

For the C360, the key I feel is full power speed and commitment with the sail raked back. The rig transition is quicker and more committed as well, but if you have your 360s down, you know when you have carved enough to go for it.



Again, the cool part about C360s is the full power Gs you feel in the carve and the ability to lay the rig down and commit. Like a full power gybe, but you get to feel that wonderful feeling longer-and I think it looks stylish because you are committed.

And something fun to do between turns. I actually tried it with my back foot out/ front foot strapped in-like a jibe. I didn't even know that you can do it in the straps until I read the article . The mistakes that I can pinpoint right now are: not raking the sail back and waiting too long to get my front foot out of the strap and start the backwinded phase. I may have also committed too much , layed it down too low for the moderate wind conditions like I do many times when Heli tacking. Bearing away longer to gain more speed like Stefan recommends makes sense too. I didn't prepare theoretically beforehand at all, the idea came to me out of nowhere right there on the lake.
Awesome picture btw Mark!

New Years resolutions I didn’t follow up on it last year, got distracted as usual, but I intend to focus on the move this season. People are doing it on the exactly the same board /in the picture/ like mine, so no excuses.

Ok, so I got to the 4:45 minute of Colin’s video and of course I do exactly what he says some people do /no surprise/ -I rush and pull the rig forward. The result is predictable-getting flipped over . The key as he says is being patient here and let the board exhaust it’s momentum and come to a stop. Surely a 103 Kode would be a more stable platform at this point, but I have to deal with what I have and 94 is not extremely small, after all I can uphaul it in a very flat water when I focus enough. Colin gives a great tip -sliding both hands forward to keep the rig as far back as possible and I have to make an effort to remember it when the chips are down.
One little step at a time, like with everything else I’ve learned.

Reid, I think we lift the sail too early. Next time I’ll try dropping the clew in the water to use it as a hinge and will see if it’ll make the board turn or just sink the tail. Not pushing, but just keeping it back and down while leaning forward for a counterweight, then wait until the nose points into the wind. Worth a try!

That’s how I should be looking like in the exit phase. Body leaning forward, weight put on front leg and arm for max. mfp and while at the same time actively hiding the sail from the wind . I should start lifting it only when the mast tip is not pointing directly into the wind but some degree past the eye of it-like in the first picture where the nose of the board is at some 45 degrees angle to the wind.
The DW 360 is so different from the UP 360 it’s easy to get confused. In the UP 360 you steer actively with the rig to turn the board , keeping the sail powered all the time , while in the DW 360 you are trying to hide the sail and prevent it from powering up for most of the time. The moves can’t be any different in fact.

i like to break the downwind carve 360 into two separate, but related, parts. There's a planing board/foot steering part, and there's a non-planing sail steering finish. This transition from foot steering to sail steering can occur at different spots in the trick depending on a lot of factors like:

• -how much speed to take into the turn
• -how good is your carve
• -the relative speed for the wind strength
• -how your board carves and glides

i.e. this transition from board to sail steering will happen at a different time each time you try it, especially when learning

for the carving portion, you want glide and steady rail pressure with minimal input from the sail. keep the sail neutral and try not to let the sail get backwinded much. In higher winds the sail must be kept really low, but in lighter winds it can be a bit more upright. when you get past say 45 degrees off the wind on the new tack and are heading back up toward a beam, the COE of the sail needs to be behind the mast base and over the tail of your board. If it's forward, the push of the backwinded sail actually forces the nose of your board back off the wind, and this effect will magnify when your board stops gliding and sail steering takes over

Once you stop gliding you can flatten out the board a bit and backwind the sail over the back of your board. Being comfortable sail steering backwinded will really help you complete this trick. You can practice this in light wind by trying heli-tacks and sailing backwinded and changing your point of sail.

Once you get good at the 360, it's fun on smaller gear in higher wind and feet in both footstraps. A classic trick that never gets old. Fun for freestylers as you can use it as a setup for tricks like switch konos, and really fun on a foil board as you can foil all the way through and out (if you know what you're doing like Tony Logosz).

I finally got one. I'm no expert, I've just done it wrong enough and studied my GoPro footage enough that I thought I would add my two cents.


1. It's not an extended lay-down jibe or a U-turn that just keeps going. The path is a spiral. You go down wind and lay the sail down as late as possible.





2. The placement of the front foot is critical. You get one shot at it. Just tapping it in the wrong spot(not over centerline) will flatten the board and make it run on new beam-reach and stop carving. Foot has to be wrapped around the mast just like a tack. And pressure on the ball of the foot and not the heel to keep the board banked in the turn.




3. You can't apply back hand pressure until the tip of the mast is pointing off the wind(wind is hitting base of mast before tip) or you're done. It's all about getting the sail out of the way and getting the tip of the mast pointed down wind. And getting yourself balanced over the center of the board as if you had no sail for counter balance.

Tip of mast is pointing slightly down wind. Ready to scissor board / sail.





Here we go...