Alan,
Yeah, my "green Machine" is sea-worthy at this point but unfortunately my knee is still not functional (MCL issue). Doesn't look like a completed repair but it's all patched up and water-tight. Just a bit of sanding and its good to go. The largest area of damage is on the left rail at the same level as the vent plug, so it's an area that sees a little bit of foot traffic but not ultra critical. I still think it's best to put a bit of non-skid just in case. ...no split for me, thank you.

Eric,
Acrylic dust sounds good but is that OK to use polyester resin on an epoxy board even as a final coat? Is this compatible? Isn't there epoxy resin that's UV resistant?

Poly ester resin is compatible with the hull, but not the poly styrene core. There are supposed to be UV stable epoxies, but I've never used them, and don't know anyone else who has.

The Board Lady - Non-skid: www.boardlady.com/nonskid.htm

Thx Reid. She has an amazing amount of experience. Fun to read too.

I found non-skid acrylic dust from a couple of sources. Both are white on the spec sheet. Does anyone know if the white acrylic dust turns clear when dusted over resin? Or will it significantly affect the original color of the board?
While shopping for that dust, I also found some UV resistant epoxy.

Non Skid:
I tested the System Three acrylic dust I mentioned above and it is absolutely not suitable for redecking a sailboard. The particles are bigger than granulated sugar. Way to coarse for feet and skin. This stuff is made to sprinkle somewhat sparingly over wet epoxy garage resurfacing paint!

Next: I think the right stuff is here: shop.fiberglasshawaii.com/shop/resin-fil...b-non-skid-4060-fine

What about the stuff they sell in the windsurf shops: isthmussailboards.com/re-dek-kit.html
or this one: www.windpowerwindsurfing.com/shop/index...._79&products_id=4526

Maybe. I haven't heard many positives on the longevity of redekkit. I think the complaints were about the fact it doesn't last.
Don't know neither heard anything about the chinook monstergrip in a can.

Here's s the project: I want to re-texture a section of my Atom to look like or very close to the factory apply non-skid. I properly repaired a couple of cracks and crushed area on the deck (shore break damage!), painted with acrylic artist paint cans a couple of graphically somewhat coherent patches over the repairs (didn't try to match the green cause that wasn't going to be possible) and now just need the non-skid to finish it up.

Quick fix from last year before final repair:





During and after glass and epoxy repair:

Here's the completed work with the correct non-slip material. Not perfect but pretty close to manufacturing I'd say. When scraping the System Three texture, some black paint covering the repair came off. Instead of painting over, I just left it as is. Looks better that way I think. So, best results with Fiberglass Hawaii Non-Skid #1 40/60 Medium Fine. I sprinkled the stuff with a small kitchen metal mesh colander over a very thin coat of UV m-resistant epoxy resine applied with an old hotel key card (thinner than a credit card). The Board Lady recommends using a small foam pain roller. It didn't work for me as the micro holes on the foam roller created a texture with the resin which had the effect of creating small craters within the resin - not good for getting the texture to adhere. I waited a few minutes to see if the resin was going to level out but it didn't, hence the key card technique. After all this had a chance to cure overnight, I used a brush first and paint scrapper to knock off the loose particles and to make the surface s bit less agressive. This step demands a very light touch and frequently brushing off the dust to see that what I was doing and to remain consistent throughout the entire surface.
Hope this helps someone...

Looks more mean now Great job!

Gregory,

Nice Job!
How did you do the stenciling?

Doug

Thanks Guys.

For the stenciling, I'm lucky enough to have access to a small laser cutting/engraving tool in the office. After creating the artwork on a word processor, I laser-cut a basic sheet of acetate (can find this at the Office Center to cover front pages of documents). I just taped the acetate mask on the board and masked around to prevent paint over-spray. The laser cutter makes super sharp edges and as long as the acetate stencil is in close contact with the board surface, there is less risk to end-up with fuzzy edges. Spraying the paint perpendicular to the surface and from a little afar also prevent too much air pressure from lifting up the stencil thus avoiding paint to migrate under the stencil. I tried on a piece of leftover tile I had at hand to see first how it would work. I used acrylic spray paint in a can from an Art Store. They come with easy to control fine-spray nozzles that spray relatively evenly.
Without access to a laser-cutter, I think the use of an X-Acto knife with a sharp #11 blade could work. This would require a bit of patience, a steady hand and careful cutting on somewhat large fonts.

Nice work, Greg!